Installing kitchen cabinets may seem like a daunting task but the process is so simple that you can do it yourself. It basically holds the cabinets to the wall in the correct order and ensures that everything is at the same level. So you don’t need another person to install the kitchen cabinets, you can do it yourself so easily.
You can save money on installation charges if you take on this project yourself, but you will need someone else’s help or a cabinet jack to lift and position the cabinets above. Also, keep in mind that the floor needs to be installed first then the kitchen cabinets need to be placed. There may be scratches or cracks on the floor when moving around cabinets and joining them together.
- level – 6-foot
- Tape measure
- Cordless drill/driver
- Impact driver
- Utility knife
Prepare the Space
To install a kitchen cabinet, We need to prepare the space first. Examine the walls and corners of the kitchen using a 4-foot level, a framing square, and a straight 2×4 to make sure they are plumb, square, and straight. Make sure there are corners on the wall where something needs to be changed. Before installing cabinets, select a place to keep trash and refrigerator and install electrical lines. Ensure the connection of lights and electrical instruments in the room.
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Mark the reference line and the high point layout line
Mark a level reference line on the wall about 48 inches from the floor by using a certain level. Snap these places with chalk and measure different places. Mark where the shortest measure is and this is the high point of the floor. Below the straight mark for high points, mark the height of your base cabinet, usually 34 inches above the floor. Extend from that mark by arranging a layered line along the walls. This line will flush the top of the base cabinet.
Join the Upper Cabinets
To make cabinets lighter and easier to position, remove doors, drawers, and moving shelves. Label everything with masking tape to return each piece without mix-up. Set a straight 1×3 clit next to and just below the layout line for the upper cabinet. Run the 2-inch drywall screws through it and into each other stud. Add more clits over the length of the line. Align the face frame of the upper corner cabinet with the cabinet on the floor to flush it with the frame of the adjacent cabinet. Paste them together. Examine the flush with an accurate edge. Drill counterbore pilot holes through the edges, top, and bottom of the face frame. Use 2-inch screws in these holes to hold the cabinets tightly.
Hang the Upper Cabinets
Bring the cabinets to the corner of the room with the help of another person and reset the clit. Check the face of the cabinet with a level to make sure it is plumbing.
If this is the case, run four 2½-inch deck screws (including washers) on the back, top, and bottom of the cabinet and on the studs. Place the remaining cabinets on the clit and align the faces with those that have been installed and clamp the edges together and attach with screws. Then, Bead cabinets as needed, then fasten the studs through the beans with 2½-inch deck screws and washers. At last, close any gaps between the wall and the end cabinet by covering the gap with a description of its style or rear edge or trimming.
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Install the Corner Base Cabinet
Move to the corner cabinet position. Squeeze it from the floor until its back edge meets the layout line. If there is a pipeline, push the shimmed cabinets against them and mark their locations on the rear panel. Turn around the cabinet and drill holes through the back with a suitable-sized hole saw. Using a level, check the face of the cabinet to make sure it is plumb. If this is not the case, place the seams in the stud position under the floor and cabinet, or between the wall and the back of the cabinet.
Check that the top of the cabinet is flat and add seams at the bottom if necessary. Sitting opposite the beams of the cabinet, run the 2½-inch deck screws (including the washer) to the back of the cabinet and into the studs. In the bean position, counterbore and fasten the cabinet to the floor with deck screws (without washer).
Install the Remaining Base Cabinets
Working from the installed corner cabinets, bend the adjoining cabinets from the walls and floor to the stud position so that the face frames are plumbed and the tops are even and even with the layout line. Connect each cabinet so that its face is flush with the neighbors already installed. Clamp them together, counterbore with the edge of the face frame, and fasten together with 2-inch screws. On the beams, move the deck screws (including the washer) to the back of the cabinet and into the studs. Using a utility knife, score and snap any beans scattered outside the edges of the cabinet. Remove all top-cabinet support clits and fill screw holes with a spatula. Replace drawers and shelves in their original cabinets.
Install the Doors and Toekick
Replace cabinet doors. For overlay doors that cover the frame of the cabinet, adjust the hinges so that the doors hang straight. Adjust the hinges for the inset door so that the door is flush with the face frame and there is an equal gap around its perimeter. Tie the toe kick trim to the base cabinet using 1-inch braids. Cut short pieces and fit the longest pieces before installing. Close and scrape any gaps in the floor and trim or cover the floor with brad nails in the shoe mold. Recess the nail heads with a nail set and cover them with a wood putty or wax stick to match the color.
If there is crown molding for trimming the top cabinets, meter the joints in the outer corners and tackle the joints in the inner corners. Align the bottom edge of the mold with the layout line of the level marked above the top of the door. Glue the end joints to the mold by tying the mold to the cabinet with 1- to 2-inch finish nails. Before covering them with a wooden spoon or a matching wax stick, race the nail heads with the nail set.